A haberdasher's shop or the items sold therein are called haberdashery. In American English, haberdasher is another term for a men's outfitter. H haberdasher A haberdasher is a person who sells small articles for sewing, such as buttons, ribbons, zippers, and other notions. Gussets were used at the shoulders, underarms, and hems of traditional shirts and chemises made of rectangular lengths of linen to shape the garments to the body. gusset A gusset is a triangular or square piece of fabric inserted into a seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing. Dyed in the grain refers to dyeing with kermes, a red insect dye. With the grain indicates parallel to the threads of a woven fabric, lengthwise or crosswise. The lengthwise and crosswise grain of fabric refer to the directions parallel to the warp and weft, respectively. Flared skirts can be made of 2 or more gores.
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gore A gore is a shaped segment, narrow at the top and wider at the base, extending from the waistline to the hem of a skirt.
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Usually found in sleeves and skirts, but also in very full bell-bottom trousers. Ī godet ( / ɡ oʊ ˈ d eɪ/ or / ɡ oʊ ˈ d ɛ t/) is a piece of fabric wider at the bottom than at the top, often a circular sector, inserted into a garment to add fullness for ease of movement or as a design feature. drop shoulder A shoulder seam which extends past the actual shoulder point. Dressmaker in this sense is contrasted to tailored and has fallen out of use since the rise of casual wear in the mid-twentieth century. Dressmaker as an adjective denotes clothing made in the style of a dressmaker, frequently in the term dressmaker details which includes ruffles, frills, ribbon or braid trim. Also called a mantua-maker (historically) or a modiste. A dressmaker is a person who makes custom clothing for women, such as dresses, blouses, and evening gowns. The sock can be stretched over the "cap" mushroom, and gathered tightly around the stalk to provide taut surface for darning. darning mushroom A darning mushroom is a tool used for darning clothes, particularly socks. Darning also refers to any of several needlework techniques that are worked using darning stitches, including pattern darning (a type of embroidery), net darning or filet lace, and needle weaving, a drawn thread work technique. Hand darning employs the darning stitch, a simple running stitch in which the thread is "woven" in rows along the grain of the fabric, with the stitcher reversing direction at the end of each row, and then filling in the framework thus created, as if weaving. It is often done by hand, but it is also possible to darn with a sewing machine. Darning is a technique for repairing holes or worn areas in fabric or knitting using needle and thread. They frequently appear around the bust and waist. They vary in width and length and can be tapered at one or both ends. Darts are created by stitching out a wedge-shaped fold of fabric. binding Binding is used as both a noun and a verb to refer to finishing a seam, edge or hem of a garment, usually by rolling or pressing then stitching on an edging or trim.ĭ dart A dart is a common technique used for shaping garments. While bias tape can be handmade, it is also available in pre-packaged lengths (although usually only in basic colors).
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It is often used on the edges of quilts, placemats, and bibs, around armhole and neckline edges instead of a facing, and as a simple strap or tie for casual bags or clothing. Bias tape is used in making piping, binding seams, finishing raw edges, etc. Many strips can be pieced together into a long "tape." The tape's width varies from about 1/2" to about 3" (10mm to 75mm) depending on applications.
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The strip's fibers, being at 45 degrees to the length of the strip, makes it stretchier as well as more fluid and more drapeable compared to a strip that is cut on grain. bias tape Bias tape or bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric, cut on the bias. Non-woven fabrics such as felt or interfacing do not have a bias. Every piece of woven fabric has two biases, perpendicular to each other.
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The bias direction of a piece of woven fabric, usually referred to simply as "the bias", is at 45 degrees to its warp and weft threads.